Houndstooth: how to wear and style it in men’s and women’s outfits

From humble origins to a wardrobe staple in the most sophisticated looks, houndstooth has undergone an extraordinary rise, conquering the fashion world thanks to its elegance and versatility. Despite its vintage appeal, it remains a widely used pattern in contemporary fall-winter collections for both men and women, appreciated for its timeless style, refinement, and established reputation among major fashion houses.

Want to learn how to wear houndstooth? Here’s your complete guide.

A versatile and beloved pattern: what is houndstooth and when was it created?

Before diving into styling tips, there are key questions to answer: why is it called houndstooth, and who invented it?

Some call it houndstooth, others pied de poule—yet it refers to the same pattern: a sharp, geometric design resembling either a chicken’s claw or a dog’s tooth.

The exact origins are still uncertain (some historians trace its earliest appearance to ancient Sweden between 360 and 100 BC), but its widely accepted roots date back to the 19th century among Scottish shepherds in the Lowlands. Woven using sheep’s wool in contrasting tones, the fabric served to keep them warm and used neutral shades to avoid association with specific clans.

The turning point came in 1934, when Prince Edward VIII appeared in Vogue wearing houndstooth, transforming a rustic fabric into a fashionable symbol of nobility and upper-class style. In 1947, Dior further elevated it to haute couture, solidifying its place in modern fashion.

Features and uses of houndstooth fabric

In a world where many patterns look similar, recognizing each one can be challenging: houndstooth is often confused with Glen check.

To clarify: houndstooth is a geometric pattern that alternates light and dark threads (typically black and white), forming a jagged design that resembles an irregular chessboard or chicken claw, repeated throughout the fabric to create visual movement.

Glen check, on the other hand, incorporates houndstooth within a larger grid of alternating patterns.

Today, houndstooth is mostly used in seasonal wool garments: jackets, blazers, skirts, scarves, trousers, and more. Its exceptional adaptability makes it suitable for both casual and elegant contexts.

Houndstooth pattern: common mistakes to avoid

Its widespread presence in women’s and men’s collections makes houndstooth easy to incorporate in various outfits, but it still requires thoughtful styling. Here are common mistakes to avoid:

• Wearing multiple houndstooth pieces at once: the boldness of the pattern means it’s best used once or twice per outfit, balancing with solid colors. Full suits are generally discouraged unless broken up with contrast.
• Pairing with busy patterns: avoid combining houndstooth with equally complex designs (windowpane or Glen check). Opt for solids or simple patterns like fine pinstripes.
• Overly bold accessories: since houndstooth stands out on its own, avoid flashy jewelry or oversized pocket squares. Minimalism helps the pattern shine.
• Ignoring scale: large-scale houndstooth is eye-catching and suits casual settings; smaller versions are ideal for formalwear. Choose the right scale based on setting and body proportions.

How to wear houndstooth: casual looks

A symbol of classic British elegance, houndstooth fits not only formal outfits but also casual ones. The key is contrast both chromatic and stylistic to achieve fresh, contemporary looks with urban edge.

If you want to make houndstooth the main feature, experiment with browns, coral red, blue, forest green, or soft pastels like pale green, ash blue, and pink. Larger-scale patterns offer stronger visual impact and work well in casual outfits.

Jacket or blazer: the main element

In casual contexts, pair a houndstooth jacket or blazer with jeans—regular or slightly baggy—and a minimal knit. Crewnecks or fitted turtlenecks in black or white work well, depending on desired contrast.

Women can also style the blazer with soft tops and long skirts to create volume or wear it over a solid-colored dress.

Houndstooth trousers: the alternative focus point

Trousers in soft houndstooth fabrics can add interest to outfits when paired with understated tops.

For men, pair with oversized printed tees, sweatshirts, varsity jackets, bombers, leather or suede jackets, or corduroy jackets.

Women can play with layering: oversized blazers, long knit cardigans, houndstooth trousers or skirts. Leather jackets—classic black, brown, or bold red—are also trending.

For a refined casual look, swap jeans for chinos or light wool pleated trousers, paired with a turtleneck and teddy coat. To embrace the genderless trend, add dimension with a quality wool woman vest worn alone or under a blazer.

Footwear and accessories for casual outfits

Contrast applies to shoes and accessories too: sneakers, ballet flats, casual suede loafers, Chelsea boots, and chukka boots—all now genderless options.

In fall-winter, houndstooth pairs perfectly with matte leather or suede accessories: classic or braided belts, soft leather backpacks, informal tote bags, or crossbody bags. Add a wool beanie and a warm scarf to finish the look.

How to style houndstooth: elegant and formal outfits

While casual contexts welcome experimentation, formal looks favor classic elegance: traditional monochrome houndstooth or warmer shades such as beige, camel, light brown, and dark brown, paired with tailored pieces. Small-scale patterns offer a refined, subtle visual effect.

Single-breasted vs. Double-breasted: which to choose?

A full suit is usually the centrepiece of the most formal and elegant looks, but when working with houndstooth, it’s advisable to proceed with care and to introduce a contrasting element. One way to achieve this is by pairing tailored houndstooth trousers and a structured houndstooth blazer with a clearly visible underlayer—such as a refined black turtleneck. The same idea applies to women’s tailoring featuring houndstooth skirts or trousers: tops, sweaters, blouses, or waistcoats help interrupt the continuity of the pattern, bringing balance to the outfit.

Alternatively, opting for a broken suit is often a smarter strategy, allowing houndstooth to stand out without overwhelming the look.

A single-breasted blazer creates a more modern aesthetic. Wear it buttoned over a turtleneck in black or autumnal neutrals such as brown, rust, brick, hazelnut, or beige. A high-quality wool waistcoat in a solid colour can add another layer of refinement. For elegant occasions that are slightly less formal, the blazer can be worn slightly open to reveal the layers underneath.

These same principles apply to women’s outfits, combining soft or slightly oversized blazers with

A double-breasted houndstooth blazer enhances the vintage feel of the pattern. For both men and women, it exudes sophistication, especially when paired with tailored, contrasting solid trousers or skirts. Opt for regular-fit trousers with pleats for men; ankle-length or wide-leg trousers for women.

If not opting for solids, subtle stripes (chalkstripe or pinstripe) are acceptable.

Accessories for elegant houndstooth outfits

Finish the look with polished leather loafers, classic lace-ups, pointed heels, slingbacks, refined ankle boots, structured tote bags, or discreet clutches.

If houndstooth isn’t dominant, echo the pattern in small accessories for a stylish touch.