Women's tuxedos: the perfect glamorous look for the holidays

Long associated exclusively with menswear, the tuxedo waited until the 1960s to revolutionize women’s fashion as well, boldly breaking down gender conventions.

Once reserved strictly for formal occasions, today the tuxedo is worn both in settings that demand a rigorous dress code and in contexts that welcome casual chic, often with subtle street-style influences.

Here is the definitive guide to the women’s tuxedo, to help you style and wear it with the right balance of sophistication.

From menswear suit to genderless icon: a brief history of the tuxedo

The tuxedo originated in the mid-19th century as a type of smoking jacket worn in gentlemen’s smoking rooms, designed to prevent tobacco odours from clinging to clothing. Its evolution is credited to tailor Henry Poole, famed for his work alongside Napoleon III. Commissioned by the Prince of Wales, Poole created a shorter smoking jacket that quickly gained popularity in England and later spread to America under the name “Tuxedo”.

The garment’s fame, cemented by cinema icons such as Humphrey Bogart and James Bond actors, as well as Marlene Dietrich, meant it was no longer confined to men’s wardrobes, eventually making its way onto women’s fashion runways.

In 1966, Yves Saint Laurent sparked a true revolution with his women’s version of the tuxedo, now widely embraced by those seeking chic, bold, and genderless looks.

Women’s tuxedo: when to wear it and its defining features

Elegant and formal settings are ideal for showcasing the tuxedo at its finest. Traditionally, etiquette reserves it for evening ceremonies and high-profile events such as galas, charity evenings, art exhibitions, cocktail parties, and sophisticated weddings.

As a well-established garment, the classic tuxedo features distinctive elements that make it instantly recognisable, although some of these are often reinterpreted in women’s versions:

• The traditional jacket is made of lightweight worsted wool, barathea, or velvet, usually in black or midnight blue. White versions are also popular.
• The jacket features peak or shawl lapels in satin or silk, with jetted pockets. Buttons are covered in the same fabric as the lapels.
• No back vent is present on the jacket.
• The closure is traditionally single-breasted, with one or at most two buttons.
• Trousers typically match the jacket in fabric and colour, with a regular fit and a satin or silk side stripe, no turn-ups, and are worn without a belt, instead paired with slim braces.
• Under the jacket, a white tuxedo shirt with a stiff collar often pleated is traditionally worn. Double cuffs extend no more than 1 cm beyond the jacket sleeves and are fastened with cufflinks.
• A silk cummerbund or elegant waistcoat is traditionally included.
• Another iconic element is the bow tie, also in satin or silk.
• Shoes are usually black patent or polished leather lace-ups, paired with sheer black socks; for women, formal pumps are the most popular choice.

 

Many of these elements remain unchanged today, while others have evolved to meet modern needs. Usage contexts have expanded to include daytime settings and less formal occasions, giving rise to increasingly creative and contemporary interpretations.

How to wear a women’s tuxedo in formal settings

In formal contexts that require elegance or a specific dress code, strictly adhering to traditional tuxedo rules is not mandatory, but it is advisable to stay as close as possible to the garment’s most iconic features.

The best fabrics to prefer

Opt for lightweight wool, velvet, or jacquard tuxedos in black, anthracite, midnight blue, burgundy, or ivory. Details make the difference: choose a jacket with black satin or silk lapels to add a sophisticated touch and create elegant contrast with the fabric.

What trousers to pair with a women’s tuxedo

If you’re unsure how to pair a women’s tuxedo jacket, understated and essential combinations are always a safe choice. Match it with high-quality tailored trousers without turn-ups, featuring a straight or cigarette cut, to create a formal and authoritative trouser suit.

The ideal length slightly covers the shoe or—especially in modern versions—falls at the ankle or just above it. Typically, tuxedo trousers match the jacket in fabric and colour, although contrasts are sometimes used, such as a white jacket paired with black trousers.

Not all trousers need to feature the classic satin or silk side stripe to work with a tuxedo: clean, tailored styles are perfectly suitable. Choose a slightly high waist to define the silhouette or opt for palazzo trousers to play with volume and achieve a contemporary yet elegant look.

What to wear under a women’s tuxedo

If you’re wondering what to wear under a women’s tuxedo, a classic option is a white cotton or silk tuxedo shirt, either plain or pleated at the front. For a bolder effect, opt for a dark shirt in black or burgundy, especially when paired with darker jackets.

For less formal alternatives—or if you’re not a fan of shirts—soft blouses, minimalist tops, or crop tops worn under a closed jacket are also popular choices, highlighting the deep neckline typical of tuxedo styles.

Wearing a women’s waistcoat under the tuxedo jacket and over the shirt is an excellent way to emphasise the garment’s classic, vintage, and refined identity. If you’re aiming for a more relaxed elegance, the waistcoat can be considered optional.

Details to complete your tuxedo outfit

For colder days, complete the look with equally glamorous outerwear, such as a long Chesterfield coat in black, grey, or camel.

Accessories play a crucial role: footwear choices range from black polished or patent leather lace-ups to elegant loafers and pumps, depending on the level of classicism you wish to achieve.

You may choose whether or not to wear a bow tie for a striking androgynous touch. As for jewellery, opt for refined, high-quality pieces that remain discreet. Pocket squares are less common in women’s tuxedos, but if you like them, they can add a distinctive finishing detail.

Women’s tuxedo in casual-chic variations

While formality and elegance are intrinsic to the tuxedo, contemporary fashion also embraces more relaxed interpretations, perfect for adding a casual-chic edge with subtle street-style influences. These versions are ideal for romantic dinners, modern weddings, refined parties, and elegant yet not overly formal events.

The jacket remains the focal point of the modern tuxedo but can be reimagined in a more vibrant colour palette, ranging from coral red to powder blue, from pastels to deep hues such as dark green, chocolate brown, or purple. It remains essential, however, to maintain restrained pairings with the rest of the outfit, choosing an underlayer that echoes the same tones or relies on clean black-and-white contrasts.

In less traditional tuxedos, fabrics become softer and more elastic—closer to those of a blazer—while still preserving tailoring quality. The same freedom applies to fit: oversized jackets are particularly appreciated in looks that embrace urban elegance, creating striking volume contrasts.

Compared to classic ensembles composed of jacket, trousers, and often a waistcoat, younger tuxedo styles tend to favour broken looks. Tailored trousers give way to regular-fit chinos, capri trousers (especially in summer tuxedos), sheath dresses, long skirts, or midi skirts—perfect for a fresh yet elegant aesthetic.

Shirts are often replaced by long-sleeved tops, lightweight sweaters with round or V-necklines, blouses, or tops. For a glamorous yet relaxed daytime look, pairing a tuxedo jacket with a soft, fluid dress is also acceptable.

Finally, enrich the outfit with slightly bolder necklaces and earrings (without overdoing it), mini bags or structured but not overly formal totes, suede loafers, platform shoes, high ankle boots (with or without heels), elegant sandals, Oxfords, ballerinas, or timeless pumps.