Women’s coats: how to choose styles, fabrics and pairings

Garments such as women’s coats are essential not only to keep warm during winter and face the cooler temperatures of transitional seasons, but also to add an eye-catching or elegant touch to an outfit. Faced with such a wide range of available styles, how can you choose the right outerwear based on personal taste, body shape, and social context?

L.B.M. 1911 answers this question with a comprehensive guide designed to help you choose and style your next women’s coat.

Comparing styles: the main types of women’s coats

Sometimes distinctly feminine, other times inspired by a genderless aesthetic, coats have evolved into many different styles over the years. Among the most common designs found in women’s collections are:

Trench Coat: originally created as a waterproof garment during World War I, the trench coat later became a daily wardrobe classic thanks to its practicality and versatility. Traditionally double-breasted, it features a belt at the waist, wrist straps, epaulettes, slanted pockets, and side vents. It usually falls at least to the knee and is made from relatively lightweight fabrics suitable for transitional seasons. Ideal for casual outfits, yet perfectly suited to elegant looks as well.

Parka: inspired by Inuit clothing and reinterpreted in the second half of the 20th century, the parka is defined by its hood and waterproof fabric, now typically made from technical synthetic materials such as nylon. Featuring a zip closure and various lengths, it is ideal for sporty and casual looks.

Duster coat: originating in the late 19th century to protect clothing from dust, the duster is made from soft, lightweight fabrics suitable for transitional weather. It features a back vent, minimalist design without a belt, and a single-breasted closure that distinguishes it from the trench coat. Suitable for both casual outfits and more elegant or formal occasions.

Peacoat: originating in the Netherlands in the 18th century and later adopted by the British navy, the peacoat features a double-breasted front, wide collar, welt pockets, short length for ease of movement, and a wool construction. Perfect for cold seasons, it works well in casual, edgy looks as well as more formal ones.

Duffle coat (Montgomery): also of military origin (late 19th century), it is characterised by toggle fastenings, a hood, straight cut, mid-thigh length, and fabrics ranging from heavy wool to technical materials suitable for cold weather. Casual and sporty in style.

Puffer jacket: The undisputed king of winter coats, designed in the 1930s by an American hiker. Lightweight and practical, it features soft lines, horizontal quilting, and down or synthetic padding. Ideal for sporty, casual, and streetwear looks.

Teddy coat: first created in the early 20th century to protect motorists from the cold, today it replaces fur with a synthetic fabric reminiscent of teddy fleece. Soft, warm, and comfortable, it is perfect for winter and relaxed outfits.

Chesterfield coat: of uncertain origin, it became popular in the 19th century as an elegant overcoat thanks to the English Earls of Chesterfield. Falling below the knee, it is typically made from wool or cashmere. Available in single- or double-breasted versions, with welt pockets, a chest pocket, and medium-width lapels. Ideal for elegant and formal occasions.

Robe coat: similar to the trench but more minimal, it originated in the 18th century as a dressing gown. Today it is widely used in women’s fashion thanks to its soft design and waist belt that enhances the silhouette. Ideal for elegant and formal looks.

Egg coat: designed by Balenciaga in the 1960s, it features a retro style with rounded hips and a narrower hem. Usually single-breasted, made from wool or cashmere, and falling below the knee. Ideal for casual-chic or elegant looks.

Choosing a coat based on body shape

Selecting a women’s coat goes beyond personal taste: it’s essential to consider fit and proportion in order to enhance your body shape.

Pear shape: narrower shoulders and waist with wider hips. Balance the upper body with coats featuring structured or padded shoulders, double-breasted closures, or waist belts—such as trench coats, robe coats, or duffle coats. Wide lapels or trapeze cuts also work well. Knee-length models are preferable to avoid emphasising the hips.

Apple shape: slim legs and narrow shoulders with a fuller midsection. Choose loose, flowing coats such as egg coats or robe coats. Belted styles work well when tied just below the bust, avoiding pressure on the waist. Also suitable during pregnancy.

Hourglass shape: shoulders and hips are proportionate with a defined waist. Opt for structured coats that follow the body’s curves without constricting them. Medium-length trench coats and robe coats are excellent choices.

Inverted triangle: broader shoulders and narrower hips. Avoid overly voluminous coats that accentuate the upper body. Choose streamlined designs, collarless styles, or coats with small to medium lapels to balance proportions.

Rectangle shape: shoulders, waist, and hips are similar in width. Enhance the silhouette with volume—oversized or cocoon-style coats such as dusters and egg coats. Wide necklines and decorative inserts at hems and sleeves also help create dimension.

Petite build: shorter women can play with extremes, choosing short coats or mid-thigh lengths such as peacoats or duffle coats. Avoid overly bulky styles like egg coats, which can overwhelm the figure. Belted coats help elongate the legs.

Tall and slender: best suited to long, streamlined coats or medium lengths. Dusters, long peacoats, robe coats, and trench coats work particularly well, especially belted or double-breasted styles that add movement. Avoid very short models.

Full bust: comfort and balance are key. Avoid double-breasted styles and opt for single-breasted coats with wide necklines. Soft lines and belts help define the waist. Trench coats, robe coats, dusters, and teddy coats are excellent options.

How to style women’s coats casually for transitional seasons and winter

Essential during colder months, coats are also valuable allies during early autumn and spring chills.

Sporty or urban coats form the perfect base for relaxed outfits—starting with the puffer jacket, a symbol of comfort and versatility. Whether long or short, it’s important to choose a model that wraps the body harmoniously to avoid the dreaded “marshmallow effect” caused by overly tight padding.

The oversized black puffer jacket is a must-have. Its voluminous design pairs perfectly with skinny or regular-fit trousers—jeans, chinos, or leather styles—preferably in solid or neutral tones to avoid visual overload.

This principle also applies to underlayers when the coat is worn open, such as fitted wool sweaters with crew necks, V-necks, or turtlenecks.

Slim-fitting garments aren’t the only option: short puffers also work well with soft jumpsuits, baggy jeans for streetwear looks, or long skirts and palazzo trousers for a more refined take.

Mid-thigh models pair beautifully with sheath dresses (with appropriate tights), crop tops with cargo trousers, while calf-length coats complement maxi dresses, allowing the hem to peek out beneath the coat.

Street fashion also embraces bold colours—red, blue, orange, yellow, fuchsia—often with metallic finishes. In these cases, the puffer jacket becomes the focal point, balanced with understated, solid-colour garments.

The parka is another winter staple perfect for casual settings, city walks, and protection against wind and rain thanks to its technical fabric and hood. While it pairs well with streetwear, it truly shines when contrasted with more feminine elements.

With its flared lines, the parka pairs well with fitted garments such as skinny jeans, straight-leg wool trousers, and turtleneck sweaters.

For a slightly more chic effect, combine it with slim-fit tailored trousers, a lightweight blazer layer, mini skirts, long flowing skirts, or dresses of various lengths.

Neutral, seasonal tones work best—beige, olive green, khaki, brown, black, or burgundy.

Accessories can elevate winter coats: wool or cashmere scarves and hats, baseball caps for a street edge, classic or chunky sneakers, or combat boots. Choose leather backpacks for sporty looks, or understated shoulder, body, or tote bags for more feminine outfits.

Elegant and formal coats: how to style them

Choosing the right coat is essential when creating an elegant outfit, as it often becomes the standout piece.

Long, structured wool coats such as Chesterfield and egg coats are perfect for formal contexts—winter events, ceremonies, and business occasions—thanks to their inherently tailored design.

Opt for understated colours such as black, white, brown, beige, khaki, or dark grey, or choose the ever-stylish camel coat. Refined patterns such as houndstooth, herringbone, or chevron are also excellent choices. With solid-colour coats, subtle patterned trousers can add visual interest.

Double-breasted styles are especially elegant, wrapping the torso harmoniously and adding structure. Ideal for casual-chic contrasts, they reach peak elegance when layered over tailored suits—skirts or trousers—for business formal looks, midi dresses, or refined pairings of tailored trousers and fitted cashmere knits.

Single-breasted coats are equally elegant but place more emphasis on soft lines rather than strict structure. Wide, elongated lapels enhance balance and elongate the silhouette. These styles allow underlayers to remain visible, making layered looks with turtlenecks and women’s waistcoats particularly effective. In this case, regular-fit tailored trousers can be replaced with softer or palazzo cuts.

Belted coats such as trench and robe coats are also extremely chic. Their refined details call for understated, elegant pairings. Their timeless charm makes them perfect over classic underlayers, including women’s three-piece suits with tailored trousers, blazer, and waistcoat.

Alternatively, broken suit looks work well too: tailored pleated trousers paired with fitted knits or turtlenecks, or soft blouses when temperatures allow. Playing with lengths—such as layering over an elegant slip dress—creates a sophisticated effect, whether the coat is worn open or closed.

In formal settings, neutral colours remain ideal, but solids aren’t the only option. Underlayers can feature subtle patterns such as fine stripes, houndstooth, or herringbone.

For linear-cut coats, glossy leather belts can define the waist and add contrast when the coat is worn open. Cashmere beanies are a winter staple, while wide-brim hats in matching tones offer a refined alternative. Finish the look with elegant clutches, pochette or tote bags, and pointed pumps, refined loafers, lace-up shoes, or polished leather boots.

The origins of the women’s coat

The first true women’s coats appeared in 18th-century Europe as adaptations of men’s frock coats and riding coats, suitable for cold days and horseback riding. Lines softened at the beginning of the following century with the introduction of the doglietta—a refined, soft overcoat often trimmed with fur—alongside dusters and capes.

In the 20th century, wartime conditions encouraged the spread of Cossack-inspired coats and shorter, more practical designs suited to work and new lifestyles. Parisian haute couture later introduced feminine tailoring, voluminous silhouettes, and mini coats that enriched the runways of the world’s leading designers.